I call this little experiment the cocoa coefficient, or the cocoafficient, if you like. Just a little thought exercise in exploring the biodiversity and growing conditions of a plant changing its flavour, nutrition, aroma, even appearance. Chocolate, coffee, hops, olive oil and wine are all perfect examples of how biodiversity is expressed in taste.
The Theobroma cacao tree grows in the rich soils of the tropical rainforests, in a narrow band 20 degrees north and south of the equator. While a lot of the flavour and mouthfeel of chocolate is down to the genetics of the plant, the fermentation and drying of the beans, and of course the ratios of cocoa to milk and sugar in the chocolate itself, each region’s unique soil health, climate and altitude all have a huge role to play in regional nuances of flavour.
Take chocolate seriously, it’s a seriously resource- and labour intensive luxury! Taste it slowly, and contemplate the origin of the chocolate’s subtle overlapping flavours and aromas. Immerse yourself, imagine yourself in the forest and in the diversity of the flora that surrounds you.
Think. Before and during the experience, think about the country, region and even the farm where the cacao was grown. Try looking up images of the area, and research and think about the growing conditions, altitude, soil and species. I used rich, deep, fruity 85% number grown by the Acopagro cooperative in the San Martin region of Peru – an area known for its diverse geography, from the ravines of the Andean Plateau to the rich, fertile floodplains of the Huallaga River.
Look. Study the chocolate’s appearance, what hints of colour jump out at you? How light or dark is the chocolate, can you see hues of red, orange or maybe purple? This one is a rich maroon, with hints of purple and deep crimson.
Smell. Close your eyes and focus on the aromas of the chocolate. Is it fruity and coffeelike, or dark and richly roasted? Are you surprised?
Feel. Close your eyes, pinch your nose and pop a small piece of chocolate on the front of your tongue. How does the chocolate feel in your mouth? Creamy and smooth, syrupy or textural? Fatty and unctuous, or thin and snappy? It’s snappy and brittle yet smoothly flowing, a little like hazelnut milk.
Taste. Let go of your nose, keeping the chocolate on the front of your tongue, and allow the chocolate to melt and flow. Consider the complexity, as well as how long the taste lasts. Is it an intense burst of flavour, or long and subtle? Sweet or bitter? What about the acidity, is it sour and astringent, maybe even spicy, or fruity and caramelised? Focus, and try to pick out any other flavours you can taste. Mine is an intense burst of richly sweet, overbearing fruitiness, slowly fading to the dark roasted bitterness of a fresh espresso. There are notes of raspberry, cranberry, blood orange, with a little walnut and hazelnut.
It’s a similar thought process to tasting a good wine. Last February, I went out to Sonoma County, California, where we spent a week driving up and down tasting wine and visiting farmers markets. Try the same step-by-step process with a good olive oil or coffee. We have a great coffee shop near me that uses a variety of blends, roasts and origins of coffee beans.
Double chocolate and black bean muffins (makes 6-8)
This was my contribution to the food bank this week. They’re high protein, gluten free and dairy free, not to mention the awesome nitrogen-fixing powers of the humble bean and the carbon trap of the olive tree. You can use milk, dark or white chocolate or even hazelnuts, just be sure to use the best chocolate and olive oil you can!
- 220g cooked black beans, or about 1 tin, drained. Keep the water for the next recipe
- 100g rapadura or golden caster sugar
- 50g extra-virgin olive oil
- 40g best-quality cocoa powder
- 1/2tsp baking powder
- 3 free-range eggs
- Pinch of salt
- 50g best-quality chocolate, chopped
Preheat the oven to 180C. Line a muffin tin with 6 compostable paper cupcake liners. In a large bowl, mash the beans into a paste, then beat in the oil, sugar, cocoa and baking powder until fluffy. In a separate bowl, crack the eggs and whisk with the salt until frothy.
Gently fold the eggs into the bean mixture, sprinkling in the chopped chocolate as you go. Bake for 20-22 minutes until the muffins are springy to the touch. Leave to cool for 10 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.
Aquafaba meringues with blood orange and chocolate sauce (serves 6)
Aquafaba is usually wasted, but here it’s transformed into crispy crunchy sweet treats, topped with seasonal fruit and a rich chocolate sauce – using water brings out the natural intensity of the chocolate, to properly appreciate the terroir of a truly good chocolate. You wouldn’t mix a really good whiskey with Diet Coke, would you?
Certifications like the Fairtrade Foundation are the most certain way to make sure imported ingredients like chocolate or sugar have been produced without the exploitation of small farmers. Fairtrade provide training for farmers helping them increase yields and quality, whist maintaining a good reputation with their buyers. On top of this, Fairtrade provide a premium for ingredients sold through their scheme to help communities build infrastructure and work towards sustainability in their farms.
- 170ml aquafaba – I used the aquafaba from the tinned black beans in the other recipe
- 225g rapadura or golden caster sugar
- 1/2tsp cider vinegar or lemon juice
- 2 blood oranges
- A slosh of gin – that’s the technical term
- 100g best-quality dark chocolate, chopped
- 80ml water
- 140g oat crème fraiche, yogurt or silken tofu
Preheat the oven to 110C and line two large baking sheets with compostable baking paper. Place the aquafaba in a clean metal bowl and beat using an electric mixer on high speed for about 10 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the vinegar or lemon juice and sprinkle in the sugar, a tablespon at a time and whisking between each addition. Once all the sugar is incorporate, continue whisking until the mixture is smooth, silky and forming soft peaks.
Spoon six large blobs of meringue onto the lined baking sheets. If you’re feeling fancy, press down the top of each with a wet spoon to make a hollow to sit the fruit in later. Bake for 2 hours without opening the door. After 2 hours, turn off the oven and leave to cool for at least 2 more hours.
Meanwhile, peel the oranges, saving the peel for marmalade, and cut into slices. Place them in a serving bowl and slosh over the gin, if using. Set aside to macerate while you make the chocolate sauce. Bring the water to a gentle simmer, then remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Let it sit for a minute or two, then gently whisk to combine. Add a little sugar or honey if you like it on the sweeter side, or you used a very intense chocolate.
To serve, arrange the meringues on dessert plates and top with the orange slices and yogurt. Pour over the chocolate sauce while still warm. You could also serve this with fresh raspberries or cherries later in the year.